Tuner guides · Wheels
How to pick wheels that actually fit your car

New wheels change a car more than almost any other mod. They are also easy to get wrong: a wheel that looks perfect online can rub, hit the brakes or not bolt on at all. Here is what to check, in the order that matters.
1. Bolt pattern
The bolt pattern (also called PCD) is the number of lug holes and the diameter of the circle they sit on, like 5x112 or 5x114.3. It has to match your hub exactly. A pattern that is “close enough” is not: the wheel will not seat flat.
Your bolt pattern is in your owner’s manual, on many wheel retailer sites, or stamped on the back of your current wheels.
2. Center bore
The center bore is the hole in the middle of the wheel. It must be the same size or larger than your car’s hub.
- Same size: the wheel is hub-centric and centers itself on the hub.
- Larger: use a hub-centric ring to fill the gap, so the wheel is centered by the hub and not only by the lug nuts.
- Smaller: the wheel will not fit.
3. Diameter and tire size
Going up an inch in wheel diameter usually means a tire with a shorter sidewall, so the overall diameter stays close to stock. That keeps your speedometer, gearing and fender clearance close to how the car was built.
Use the tire size calculator to compare your current size with the new one before you choose tires.
4. Width and offset
Width and offset decide where the wheel sits between the suspension and the fender.
- A wider wheel grows on both sides.
- A higher offset pulls the wheel into the car; a lower offset pushes it out.
The wheel offset calculator shows how many millimeters the new wheel moves on the outside (poke) and on the inside (closer to the strut). Measure the room you have now before you decide how far you can go.
5. Brake clearance
Big brake calipers need room behind the spokes. Many wheel makers publish a brake clearance chart or template for each wheel. If your car has larger factory brakes, or you plan a big brake kit, check this before anything else.
6. Load rating
Every wheel has a load rating: how much weight it is built to carry. It should be at least what your car needs per corner. Heavier cars, SUVs and trucks are where this matters most.
7. Lug nuts and bolts
The lug seat has to match the wheel: conical, ball (radius) or flat. Aftermarket wheels often use a different seat than your factory wheels, so you may need new lug nuts or bolts. Check the thread length too.
8. TPMS
If your car has tire pressure sensors in the wheels, plan to move them over or buy a new set, and make sure the new wheels accept them.
See it before you buy
Fitment is about numbers, but the look is the reason you are doing it. Before you order, try the wheels on a photo of your own car with Tuner: pick the style and finish, and see the finished build. Your first build is free.
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